What happens to a diode laser (808 nm) if you leave it in a garage with water inside the system?
(Realistic breakdown over time: 1 month → 1 year → 10–20 years → centuries)Assumed typical scenario:
- The machine is turned off, water remained in the cooling system (not drained after the season).
- Unheated garage: winter −10…−30 °C, summer +30…+45 °C, high humidity, dust, condensation.
- Ordinary tap water (not distilled, no antifreeze/corrosion inhibitors).
After 1 month (autumn-winter, first frosts)
- If temperature drops below 0 °C: Water freezes → ~9% expansion → rupture of copper/aluminum tubing, micro-cracks in the diode stack block, burst connecting hoses.
- Probability: 80–95% in an unheated garage in Russia/Ukraine/Belarus/Kazakhstan.
- What breaks first: the thinnest spots — copper microchannels in the diode stack, connecting fittings, plastic hoses.
- Result: The laser is already dead for normal operation. Even after thawing — it leaks, overheats, bars burn out.
Here are real examples of what happens when water freezes and bursts copper tubing (common in cooling systems):
hackaday.com
After 1 year
- Corrosion: Water + oxygen + temperature swings = intense electrochemical corrosion of copper and aluminum.
Green/white patina (copper/aluminum oxides) appears, rust on steel parts. - Clogging: Salts, rust, algae/bacteria (especially with any light exposure) completely block microchannels → even after flushing, cooling works at only 20–40% capacity.
- Electronics: Capacitors, control boards, contacts oxidize ("green plague") → power failures, sensor errors, short circuits.
- Rubber/plastic: Seals and hoses harden, crack, lose tightness.
- Result: Laser is 95% dead. Can be cannibalized for parts (stacks, lamps, drivers), but repair costs 70–90% of a new unit.
Real-world examples of green copper corrosion (verdigris/patina) from water exposure:
fischerplumbing.com
pugetsoundplumbing.com
Severe white oxidation on aluminum heatsinks after long-term water damage:
overclock.net
reddit.com
After 5–10 years
- Complete degradation of cooling system: Microchannels fully blocked, copper dissolved into green mush.
- Diode bars: Even untouched — moisture inside the stack → contact oxidation → most diodes burn out on first power-up attempt.
- Plastics/composites: Yellowing, crumbling, extreme brittleness.
- Metal: Aluminum radiators and copper tubes become porous like a sieve.
- Result: Device suitable only for scrap metal + a few expensive parts (if you're lucky to salvage drivers/power supply).
After 50–100 years and beyond (centuries)
- All metal parts in contact with water fully destroyed (copper turns to green powder, aluminum to white crumb).
- Plastic/rubber components disintegrate into dust.
- Electronics (boards, chips) oxidize beyond recognition.
- Diode crystals might theoretically survive (if no voltage spikes), but without housing/contacts — useless.
- Result: A handful of unrecognizable fragments remain, possibly a few intact lenses/sapphire windows (the most durable parts).
Quick timeline summary:
- 1 month in winter → 90% chance of physical destruction from freezing
- 1 year → corrosion + clogging → machine almost dead
- 3–5 years → 100% beyond repair (except select expensive parts)
- 10+ years → scrap metal + souvenir stacks (if lucky)
- Centuries → dust + a few resistant lenses
Bottom line:
Never leave water in a diode laser's cooling system over winter in an unheated garage.
Drain → flush with distilled water + antifreeze → dry with air → store properly.
Otherwise, it's easier (and cheaper) to buy a new one than to resurrect a "drowned" machine after six months.If this exact situation happened to you — write what’s left of the unit, and we’ll try to figure out what (if anything) can be saved!
